EnglishEdition StatementReprintIllustrations noteIllustrations, unspecified: Penguin Books, 42492. Paperback. **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** "Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss... More about Barbarian Days : A Surfing Life